SBIR Phase II: Conversion of Keratin-Rich Materials into Regenerated Textile Fibers

The broader/ commercial impact of this Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) Phase II project is to turn keratin-rich materials into high-quality fabric. This project is developing a new way to convert alternative keratin-rich materials into soft, durable, and decomposable textile fibers. By replacing traditional source materials with alternative keratin-rich materials, the project provides a new way for producers of these materials to create new income streams. Ultimately, this innovation moves the clothing industry toward a circular model based on domestic resources. This project addresses the high-risk challenge of converting keratin-rich materials into regenerated protein fibers that replicate the tactile and mechanical performance of high-end cashmere. The primary technical hurdle lies in determining whether proteins recovered via a controlled, aqueous extraction process can retain the structural integrity necessary for high-speed spinning and downstream textile manufacturing. The scope involves finalizing a fiber architecture compatible with conventional yarn production, scaling output to kilogram quantities for partner evaluation, and optimizing batch economics to achieve price parity with the premium cashmere market. The core intellectual contribution is establishing the structure-property relationships required to engineer keratin into reproducible multifilament fibers with precise control over fineness, softness, and tensile strength. The methodology follows a staged scale-up: transitioning extraction from laboratory reactors to pilot-scale systems, increasing throughput on industrially relevant wet-spinning or melt-spinning platforms. Success will be validated through standardized mechanical and sensory testing to confirm that the regenerated fibers meet strict industry specifications for micron fineness, elasticity, drape, and durability. This award reflects NSF's statutory mission and has been deemed worthy of support through evaluation using the Foundation's intellectual merit and broader impacts review criteria.