IDA Fiber Studio Proposal for N21A-T001 Military Uniform Fabric Produced with Hemp Fibers

Hemp is an abundant, fast growing, and biodegradable plant producing natural fiber three times stronger than cotton with a linen-like hand and antimicrobial properties. The purpose of this Department of Navy (DoN) Small Business Technology Transfer (STTR) contract is to create ‘Military Uniform Fabric Produced with Hemp Fibers’ and to build high value, better performing, and more sustainable materials for the Navy while also bolstering hemp research and domestic hemp supply chains. Our hypothesis is that textiles woven with hemp fiber yarn blends will create significant benefits over current MCCUU cotton/nylon materials, including but not limited to; improved strength and durability, inherent microbial and pest resistance, lighter weight, improved FR ratings, reduced costs, and a more sustainable textile. This research will seek to better understand and measure those characteristics within the context of the domestic supply chain and in comparison to the MCCUU textiles. In order to validate or nullify our hypothesis, IDA Fiber Studio will focus on three main objectives: (1) the development of hemp yarn and fabric, (2) benchmarking hemp blended material performance against current MCCUU fabrics, and (3) planning the scope and feasibility for future research, trials, and scaled production. It is understood that the inherent long staple length (approximately 8 inches) of hemp is a key characteristic in its durability and is necessary to create finer yarn counts, higher hemp percentages in blends, and lighter weight fabrics. IDA Fiber Studio’s research and development trials thus far have revealed that current processing methods of domestic hemp result in a shortened fiber, due to unrefined methods of retting, degumming, and carding. Considering this limitation, the Phase One Base technical effort will focus on short staple yarn spinning with hemp/cotton and hemp/nylon blends at differing percentages and yarn counts. Yarns from these trials will be woven into 2x1 Left Hand Twill fabrics at the Wilson College of Textiles, based on the MCCUU material specifications for blouses and trousers. Materials will also be tested by the Wilson College of Textiles at the fiber, yarn, and fabric phases. Once a measurable baseline is established in Phase One Base, Phase One Option will experiment with different fiber blends, such as wool and lyocell, and continue to improve the hemp fiber length through processing and manufacturing refinements. The objective in Phase Two is to spin long staple hemp yarns, through preparation and research conducted during the Phase One Base and Option periods. While domestic manufacturing capabilities are currently limited, this research will serve to build expertise, fuel demand, and reduce the barrier to entry for businesses of all sizes, throughout the supply chain. Investment in IDA Fiber Studio’s hemp textile research through this STTR contract will benefit the economy, the environment, and material innovation.